The Safe, Non-Toxic Sunscreen Guide

Sunscreens are supposed to protect us from the sun rays—but what if some of them can do more harm than good? Our mostly unregulated beauty industry allows product manufacturers to be creative with the chemicals used to create sun protection that’s effective, smells nice, and absorbs easily without proof that the ingredients are proven safe for consumers.

Last May, the FDA released a study that showed that four of the chemicals in most sunscreens are absorbed into the bloodstream at significant levels after only one day of use. And in the FDA’s most recent January 2020 study posted in the journal JAMA that tested additional chemicals showed that all seven of those tested can be found in the bloodstream at levels that surpassed the FDA threshold for potentially waiving additional safety testing.

But beyond showing up in our blood, these chemicals carry many other concerns. Many of these chemicals rise in the blood concentration and remain there for up 24 hours and some longer. Some of these chemicals have been also been shown to be endocrine disruptors, meaning they interfere with our hormonal systems. These chemicals can cause tumors, birth defects, infertility, cross the blood-brain barrier leading to neurotoxicity, and other developmental disorders by altering, mimicking, or changing the body’s natural hormone levels.

David Andrews, a senior scientist for the Environmental Working Group, a consumer organization which advocates for sunscreen safety told CNN: ”What is most alarming about these findings is that chemicals are absorbing into the body in significant amounts and the ingredients have not been fully tested for safety.”

And though the FDA says more evidence is needed before drawing conclusions, it not hard to see a serious problem with using sunscreens containing chemicals that can hormonally and neurologically affect us. It’s past time to look at alternatives.

Learn more about the seven toxic sunscreen chemicals to avoid, the two safe mineral sunscreen ingredients, and then my list of the safest and best sunscreens available. These sunscreens are safe for pregnancy, for kids, and for everyone. So before you dive into the water with harmful chemicals on your body this summer, let’s dive into what to avoid and why.

Sunscreen Ingredients to Avoid: Chemical Blockers

In the 2019 FDA study, oxybenzone, avobenzone, octocrylene, and ecamsule were the four chemical ingredients shown to be absorbed in the bloodstream at levels that forced the FDA to conduct more testing. The 2020 test reevaluated three of the original four (avobenzone, oxybenzone and octocrylene) and added three additional sunscreen chemicals — homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate.

Here’s a little more about each of these chemical sunscreens, the reasons to avoid them, and the Environmental Working Group’s ratings of these chemicals with 1 being the best score with little or no concern, and 10 being the worst score with extreme concern. I’ll also include a few key examples of the staggering numbers of products containing each of these chemicals.

1. Oxybenzone

Oxybenzone is the chemical with the most notoriety, with studies from several years ago showing a potential link between oxybenzone and lower testosterone levels in adolescent boys, hormone changes in men, and shorter pregnancies and disrupted birth weights in babies. Of course, researchers caution about assuming association, but to me, if that doesn’t set off alarm bells then I don’t know what does.

A Swiss study found oxybenzone or one of the other sunscreen chemicals in 85% of breast milk samples, sparking concern that newborns could be exposed. Oxybenzone is particularly troublesome because the study showed it was absorbed into the body at about a 50 to 100 times higher concentration than any of the other three chemicals they tested.

A 2018 report by the EWG estimated that oxybenzone was in two-thirds of all chemically based sunscreens sold in the United States. So, this is absolutely the worst offender, the one to avoid at all costs, but also the most prevalent.

EWG gives it a rating of 8 (high concern) with the following details: Enhanced skin absorption, Biochemical or cellular level changes, Developmental/reproductive toxicity, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Persistence and bioaccumulation, Use restrictions.

I highly recommend disposing of any product in your home containing this chemical.

2. Avobenzone

There have been concerns within the natural community for years about oxybenzone, and so many “green” companies have been producing sunscreen with other chemicals including avobenzone. I myself have even fallen for the greenwashing, hidden behind the natural or organic label. 

According to EWG, avobenzone has has a 2 rating but the following risks: Cancer, Allergies/immunotoxicity, contamination concerns, and use restrictions. It also goes by these chemical names:  BENZOIC ACID, 4-T-BUTYLBENZOIC ACID, BENZALDEHYDE, P-ANISIC ACID, ACETOPHENONE, DIBENZOYLMETHANE.

And the problem is that in some ways it’s even worse that oxybenzone as it absorbs into the bloodstream at even higher levels. And because it breaks down in the sun after 30 minutes, it’s often paired with octinoxate, oxybenzone, and octocrylene, which are known hormone and endocrine disruptors. It’s also a severe eye irritant and can be a contact allergen for those with sensitive skin.

3. Octocrylene

There are fewer studies on octocrylene, but it has been shown to inhibit gene expression in development and brain development in marine life. And in addition to the elevated levels in blood from the FDA study, octocrylene shows up in pronounced levels in breastmilk in this study.

EWG gives it a 3 rating for biochemical or cellular level changes, irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), persistence and bioaccumulation, and use restrictions.

4. Ecamsule

Ecamsule (also known as Mexoryl SX) has the least amount of data and testing. It was created by and is still exclusively used by La Roche-Posay, the cosmetics division of the French cosmetics giant L’Oréal. In 2006, the FDA allowed La Roche-Posay to produce one specific sunscreen formulation with Mexoryl SX for the U.S. market.

Just as the other chemical UV filters have shown a high correlation between absorption into the blood at elevated levels and concerning levels of the chemicals in urine, even in that of pregnant women, there is cause for concern regarding this chemical.

5. Homosalate

Homosalate (also known as homomenthyl salicylate, HMS, HS; 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl-salicylate) is a widely used chemical in sunscreens. Homosalate is a potential endocrine disruptor and studies in cells suggest it may impact hormones. The chemical may also enhance the absorption of pesticides in the body.

EWG gives it a 2-4 rating depending on usage and reports enhanced skin absorption, use restrictions (moderate), endocrine disruption (low), non-reproductive organ system toxicity (moderate), ecotoxicology (low), contamination concerns (SALICYLIC ACID and TRIMETHYLCYCLOHEXANOL). And salicylic acid is contraindicated for pregnancy, so absolutely avoid any sunscreen with this chemical if you are pregnant or trying to conceive.

6. Octisalate

Also known as octyl salicylate, there are linked health concerns associated with exposure to octisalate include immune effects and allergenic effects. Japan’s Standards for Cosmetics has restricted its use in certain types of cosmetics. EWG gives it a 1-3 rating, with concerns including Developmental/reproductive toxicity (low), Enhanced skin absorption, Endocrine disruption (moderate), Persistence and bioaccumulation (low), Non-reproductive organ system toxicity (low), Biochemical or cellular level changes (high).

Other names include EHS; 2-ethylhexyl ester benzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-; 2-ethylhexyl ester salicylic acid; 2-ethylhexyl salicylate; ethylhexyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; 2-hydroxy- 2-ethylhexyl ester benzoic acid; benzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-, 2-ethylhexyl ester; benzoic acid, 2hydroxy, 2ethylhexyl ester; brn 2730664; einecs 204-263-4 [4].

7. Octinoxate  

Octinoxate (or octyl methoxycinnamate) can be absorbed rapidly through skin and has been detected in human urine, blood and breast milk, which indicates that humans are systemically exposed to this compound. Octinoxate is an endocrine disruptor that mimics estrogen and can disrupt thyroid function. So definitely avoid this one.

EWG gives it a 5 rating lists these concerns: Developmental/reproductive toxicity (low), Allergies/immunotoxicity (low), Enhanced skin absorption, Endocrine disruption (moderate), Persistence and bioaccumulation (low), Non-reproductive organ system toxicity (low), Biochemical or cellular level changes (high).

Other chemicals of concern include the following:

• benzophenone-3 and −4
• 4-methylbenzylidene camphor
• 3-benzylidene camphor

In summary, these is no “safe”option with any chemical sunscreens. Too much is unknown and there is too much risk with the levels of absorption in the blood and urine, the endocrine disruption, and biochemical interference. But luckily, mineral sunscreens offer a much safer alternative.

Recommended sunscreens: Physical blockers

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are what doctors call “physical” sunscreens because they sit on top of the skin and physically scatter the sun’s rays, like a mirror, preventing ultraviolet radiation from getting to the skin. And what makes them safer is that few if any zinc or titanium particles penetrate the skin to reach living tissues.

According to the FDA’s 2019 proposed final sunscreen monograph, only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have enough safety information about their ingredients to determine them safe and effective. This is in contrast to the insufficient data available to determine the safety of 7 chemical-based active ingredients found in the vast majority of the products found on the U.S. market.

One thing to note, however, is that powdered and spray forms of these two chemicals is not recommended. The EWG as well as many studies have shown that there is a very real toxicity risk of inhalation of mineral sunscreen particles, especially because their nanoparticle size in these forms increases their ability to be easily absorbed. The FDA is proposing additional tests for sunscreens in powder (often makeup) form or aerosol form to ensure no nanoparticles or small particles are released that could damage the lungs. So as convenient as a spray sunscreen seems, the unfortunate truth is that there are no sunscreen sprays shown to be safe.

In this section I’ll explain a bit about each of these two chemicals and then share my list of brands that I trust for the safe application of these two products.

Zinc Oxide

Zinc oxide is derived from the mineral zinc to create a material that is effective at blocking the sun’s rays. When applied to the skin, zinc oxide can have a white appearance and also feel slightly heavy on the skin. Many manufacturers have reduced particle size to reduce this appearance while leaving them large enough that they are not absorbed by the skin.

Zinc oxide is unique among sunscreen ingredients it is the only full-spectrum sunscreen, and the most effective all-in-one as it protects from UVA, UVB, and even UVC rays. Zinc oxide is also known for its noncomedogenic and antimicrobial properties that can help to in wound healing.

Titanium Dioxide

Titanium dioxide is produced from titanium and is chalky, white and highly reflective in its natural state. Titanium dioxide is noncomedogenic and it is effective at providing protection against ultraviolet-B and short-wave ultraviolet-A rays. It’s recommended to be combined with zinc oxide to provide full-spectrum coverage.

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics says that in lotions and creams, it presents low risk of exposure. However, when it could be inhaled in powder or spray form it is considered a possible carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer.

Safe Sunscreens for your family

I’ve scoured ratings from EWG and safecosmetics.org to bring you recommended products from brands that only offer safe mineral sunscreen ingredients (EWG rating 1-2) of zinc oxide and titanium and don’t include toxic chemicals such as parabens, silicones, PEGs, and others. For now, I’ll allow brands that offer mineral sprays as well, but as a reminder, there are no safe sunscreen sprays. 

I’m including at least one product from each of the companies who meet those standards, and most of these companies offer several more excellent products in their lines. There are other sunscreens available with safe mineral formulations, but I’m not including any companies that sell products with toxic chemicals and then choose to also dabble in one or two mineral sunscreens. I also do not include companies who only offer mineral sunscreens but who use toxic silicones, parabens, and other endocrine disruptors in their formulation. I think it’s deceptive and misleading to consumers, and therefore, I won’t advertise their supposedly “safe” versions that could result in someone buying a chemical or compromised sunscreen. 

So check out this list below and you can also shop all these products and more at my safe sunscreen Amazon store! 

For more information, check out The Environmental Working Group and The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. Both are a wealth of information and research for the safety for sunscreen and other consumer products. 

Baby & kids sunscreen

Everyday sunscreen/moisturizer

Face sunscreen

Sport/ water-resistant sunscreen

In addition to the above brands, I also recommend All Terrain and Sunumbra for product safety.

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What are you favorite sunscreens? Are you surprised at any of the findings in this guide?

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